Monday, October 26, 2009

Art Nouveau「新藝術」運動,Art Deco「裝飾藝術」運動

Art Nouveau, 1890-1910 「新藝術」運動
新藝術源自於法國,是一個在藝術的表現風 格上,建築和應用藝術裡的國際性的運動,特別是其中的裝飾藝術 (1890-1905)在19世紀末、20世紀初時達到顛峰 (Sterner, 1982)。 “Art nouveau” 法文的意思是 “new art”;也是德文的 “Jugendstill” ,是指“young style”。新藝術是針對19世紀學院派藝術的反動,特別是對矯飾的維多利亞風格和其他過份裝飾風格,以有機形態為其特質,尤其是以花卉或植物為靈感為 主題,以大量的曲線性的形式表現 (Duncan, 1994),旨在重新掀起對傳統手工藝的重視與熱衷,轉向採用自然中的一些裝飾動機,特別受到日本江戶時期的藝術與裝飾風格影響,以及浮世繪木刻印刷品風 格的影響(王受之,2000)。同時,新藝術不單指的是一種風格,而是一種思維模式在關於現代社會與新的藝術作品表現方法,嘗試再為藝術作品賦予新的定 義,「新藝術」運動將跳脫了古典的束縛而打破純藝術與應用藝術的藩籬,藝術家將僅可能把作品呈現於不同的形式,從建築、家具、珠寶、陶瓷、雕塑及生活中藝 術品等生活中。

by Aubrey Beardsley

「新 藝術」運動中對捷克藝術家阿爾豐思.穆卡 (Alphonse Mucha, 1860-1939)的影響非常大,當穆卡在1985年1月為歌舞劇 Gismonda製作了一系列的平版海報廣告,一夕之間轟動巴黎,同時,創造了一個新的藝術風格,就是所謂的「穆卡風格 」(Ian Johnston, 2004),穆卡的設計具有鮮明的「新藝術」運動特徵,也有強烈的個人特點,運用誇張的植物紋樣為中心的曲線來設計,且採單線平塗的方法,其動機來自拜占 庭的陶瓷鑲嵌。他的設計有高度的統一性,無論人物形象、裝飾紋樣、字體等都有著統一風格與一致性。「新藝術」風格經過他的促進,成為影響歐洲各個國家平面 設計的潮流。新藝術在15年的顛峰時期橫跨了整個歐洲,從蘇格蘭、蘇俄到西班牙,但其影響卻是全世界的,「新藝術」運動 可以說是吸引當時各種具有強烈各人特徵和自然主義特徵風格的高度折衷設計方式,到各國之後,每一個表現形式也都各自表述、詮釋而產生多樣化。是設計史上一 次非常重要、強調手工工藝傳統的,具有相當影響力的形式主義運動(王受之,2000)。

「新藝術」運動是個世紀之交的一次承上啟下的設計運動,在歷史上為新古典主義和現代主義中扮演一個非常重要的橋梁。

Art Nouveau (French pronunciation) is an international movement and style of art, architecture and applied art—especially the decorative arts—that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century (1890–1905). The name 'Art nouveau' is French for 'new art'. It is also known as Jugendstil, German for 'youth style', named after the magazine Jugend, which promoted it, and in Italy, Stile Liberty from the department store in London, Liberty & Co., which popularized the style. A reaction to academic art of the 19th century, it is characterized by organic, especially floral and other plant-inspired motifs, as well as highly-stylized, flowing curvilinear forms. Art Nouveau is an approach to design according to which artists should work on everything from architecture to furniture, making art part of everyday life.

The movement was strongly influenced by Czech artist Alphonse Mucha, when Mucha produced a lithographed poster, which appeared on 1 January 1895 in the streets of Paris as an advertisment for the play Gismonda by Victorien Sardou, starring Sarah Bernhardt. It was an overnight sensation, and announced the new artistic style and its creator to the citizens of Paris. Initially called the Style Mucha, (Mucha Style), this soon became known as Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau's fifteen-year peak was most strongly felt throughout Europe—from Glasgow to Moscow to Madrid — but its influence was global. Hence, it is known in various guises with frequent localized tendencies. In France, Hector Guimard's metro entrances shaped the landscape of Paris and Emile Gallé was at the center of the school of thought in Nancy. Victor Horta had a decisive impact on architecture in Belgium. Magazines like Jugend helped spread the style in Germany, especially as a graphic artform, while the Vienna Secessionists influenced art and architecture throughout Austria-Hungary. Art Nouveau was also a movement of distinct individuals such as Gustav Klimt, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Alphonse Mucha, René Lalique, Antoni Gaudí and Louis Comfort Tiffany, each of whom interpreted it in their own individual manner.


by Alphonse Mucha

Although Art Nouveau fell out of favor with the arrival of 20th-century modernist styles, it is seen today as an important bridge between the historicism of Neoclassicism and modernism. Furthermore, Art Nouveau monuments are now recognized by UNESCO on their World Heritage List as significant contributions to cultural heritage. The historic center of Riga, Latvia, with "the finest collection of art nouveau buildings in Europe", was inscribed on the list in 1997 in part because of the "quality and the quantity of its Art Nouveau/Jugendstil architecture", and four Brussels town houses by Victor Horta were included in 2000 as "works of human creative genius" that are "outstanding examples of Art Nouveau architecture brilliantly illustrating the transition from the 19th to the 20th century in art, thought, and society." It later influenced psychedelic art that flourished in the 1960s and 1970s.
--quoted from Wikipedia

參考資料
中文部份
王受之(2000)。世界現代平面設計。台北,藝術家出版社。

英文部份
Duncan, Alastair (1994). Art Nouveau. World of Art. New York: Thames and Hudson.
Sterner, Gabriele (1982). Art Nouveau, an Art of Transition: From Individualism to Mass Society. 1st English ed. (original title: Jugendstil: Kunstformen zwischen Individualismus und Massengesellschaft) Trans. Frederick G. Peters and Diana S. Peters. New York: Barrons Educational Series Inc.

Art Deco, 1925-1940 「裝飾藝術」運動
「裝 飾藝術」是在西元1925年至1940年所盛行的國際藝術設計,它的名字源於1925年在巴黎舉行的世界博覽會—國際裝飾藝術展覽及現代藝術博覽會 (Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes),這個展覽旨在展示一種「新藝術」之後的建築與裝飾風格。特別是在建築、室內設計、工業設計,以及視覺藝術裡的服裝設計、繪畫、平面設 計與電影。其風格是迷人、典雅的,具功能性與現代感;20世紀初期結合了許多不同的表現風格,包括新古典主義、結構主義、立體派、現代主義、新藝術和未來 派 (Ghislaine, 2003) ,「裝飾藝術」並不是指單純的一種設計風格,和「新藝術」一樣,從1920年代的「爵士」圖案(Jazz patterns),到1930年代的流線型設計樣式,從簡約的英國化妝品包裝設計到美國洛克菲勒中心大廈的建築(王受之,2000)。顛峰時期於歐洲, 但在1930年代深深影響美洲,雖然這之間許多的設計運動有心理層面的因素或政治意圖,但Art Deco是純粹的裝飾性,其中對曼非斯派(Memphis)與普普藝術(Pop art)的影響最大。


by Adolphe Mouron

王 受之( 2000)提出從思想和意識形態方面來看,「裝飾藝術」是對矯飾的「新藝術」運動的一種反動。「新藝術」強調中世紀的、哥德式的、自然風格的裝飾,強調手 工藝的美,否定機械化的時代特徵;而「裝飾藝術」運動卻是反對自然(特別是有機形態的)的、單純手工藝的趨向,而主張機械化的美,因而,「裝飾藝術」風格 更加具有積極的時代意義。「裝飾藝術」運動在形式上受到以下幾個特別的因素影響而形成 (Meggs, 1998) :
1) 埃及等古代裝飾風格的實用性借鑒
2) 原始藝術的影響
3) 簡單的幾何外型
4) 舞台藝術的影響
5) 汽車與現代工業的影響
6) 獨特的色彩系列

by Tamara de Lempicka

Art Deco was a popular international art design movement from 1925 until the 1940s, affecting the decorative arts such as architecture, interior design, and industrial design, as well as the visual arts such as fashion, painting, the graphic arts, and film. At the time, this style was seen as elegant, glamorous, functional, and modern.

Rockefeller Center, New York

The movement was a mixture of many different styles and movements of the early 20th century, including Neoclassical, Constructivism, Cubism, Modernism, Art Nouveau, and Futurism. Its popularity peaked in Europe during the Roaring Twenties and continued strongly in the United States through the 1930s. Although many design movements have political or philosophical roots or intentions, Art Deco was purely decorative.

Art Deco experienced a decline in popularity during the late 30s and early 40s, and soon fell out of public favor. It experienced a resurgence with the popularization of graphic design in the 1980s. Art Deco had a profound influence on many later artistic movements, such as Memphis and Pop art.
--quoted from Wikipedia

參考資料
中文部份
王受之(2000)。世界現代平面設計。台北,藝術家出版社。

英文部份
Meggs, Philip B. (1998). A History of Graphic Design., New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Wood, Ghislaine (2003). Essential Art Deco. London: VA&A Publications.

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